The Leather Finishing Stage: Making the Grade
Leather can be finished in a variety of ways, or not at all. Finishing begins after the leather is dried, and it is at this stage that is determined what the leather is going to be used for, and in the case of motorcycle jackets and chaps, the grade of apparel from a protection perspective.
Shiny patent leather is made by adding pigments or dyes, and applying a urethane lacquer to the material. Patent leather is used for handbags and women’s popular fashion apparel.
Abrasive buffing of leather will produce a suede finish, very popular with the lighter leathers. Sued coats and vests are also very popular in the fashion garment industry.
Leather can be waxed or shellacked, treated with resins, water or solvent based finishes, and can be dyed to any color desired. Vegetable tanned leather is finished to produce leather bags, belts, or shoes, and leather that has gone through the mineral tanning process will be finished to produce softer, more pliable leather suitable for apparel.
Grain leather with imperfections is sanded down to what ever degree, and then a paste is applied to even it out. Milling towards the end of the finishing process consists of throwing it in a drum one last time, producing a softer, more worn in type of leather.
Splits, which are from the bottom part of the hide have no grain, and are thus weaker than their grain leather counterparts. Oftentimes, finishing will include stamping the leather to reinforce and produce an imitation grain pattern on the split leather material.
For the best quality hides, about 10% of all leather manufactured today, the finishing stops at the dyeing process. Known as Naked Leather (without embellishment), nothing is added except the dye, keeping the natural grain intact.
Naked leather is the most desirable, and most expensive grade of leather used in the manufacturing of leather apparel, motorcycle jackets, and chaps.
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